How COCODEMER builds a product —
a way of working that began with custom cosmetics.
The compounding service is no longer offered.
Reading the skin first and separating the stages it needs
now carries into the current
Reset · Boost · Keep system.
Prepares the skin for the next stage.
Applies what prepared skin needs.
Holds the skin condition that has been reached.
The bubble formulation technology used in Aqua Quick Bubble Mask, currently on sale. The fine bubbles are made to sit close against the surface and contours of the skin.
Micro-Bubble — a formulation whose dense micro-bubbles settle into the contours of the skin.
No-Rinse Formula — an 80 ml formulation used without rinsing.
View Aqua Quick Bubble Mask* The text above describes ingredient properties and formulation technology.
The Reset and Keep stage technologies are still in development. They will be published with the product information when the products using them appear.
COCODEMER’s custom cosmetics system started by reading
the condition of the skin and then building
a different prescription for each customer.
Four serum bases,
three cream bases
and twelve functional actives combined into
58,404 serum formulations and
39,915 cream formulations —
98,319 prescription combinations in all.
Alongside the in-store system that measured skin and compounded a serum and cream per customer, we ran 17 Finished Products.
That work later widened into the COCODEMER Skin Type Indicator (CSTI) and the Skin Code system, built on four skin axes and 16 Skin Types.
That system stopped. Reading the skin before making the product did not.
The compounding system used L-CODEMAR ELIXIR™
together with formulation work on stabilising,
carrying and texturing ingredients.
An ingredient design drawn from the coco de mer,
built on a coconut water base.
A design that combines ingredients similar to the lipids skin is made of.
Unstable ingredients are stabilised inside a capsule structure and held in the formulation.
Ingredients that dissolve poorly, such as ceramides, are brought into solution within the formulation.
※ Ingredient and formulation work from the period when the custom cosmetics service ran. L-CODEMAR ELIXIR™ is not used in Aqua Quick Bubble Mask, the product currently on sale.
While the compounding system ran, we kept a separate
reference describing the ingredients that made up
the bases and the functional actives.
The list below is that record —
the individual ingredients used in the
bases and actives at the time.
Select an ingredient on the left.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
A tetraester of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid — an oil-soluble form of vitamin C.
Carnosine
A molecule made of two amino acids, beta-alanine and histidine, produced by an enzymatic process.
Dimethyl Sulfone
Obtained from dimethyl sulfoxide, a by-product of wood pulping, through oxidation, distillation, filtration and crystallisation. Also known as MSM.
Hesperidin
A flavanone glycoside found in citrus fruit.
Niacinamide
Water-soluble vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP. A functional ingredient for brightening notified by the Korean MFDS.
Nonapeptide-1
A peptide ingredient.
Tranexamic Acid
A synthetic amino acid derived from lysine.
Adenosine
A purine nucleoside in which adenine and ribose are joined by a beta-N9-glycosidic bond. A functional ingredient for wrinkle care notified by the Korean MFDS.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
A peptide ingredient.
Ceramide NP
One of the lipids present in the skin barrier. Formerly named Ceramide 3.
Tara Fruit · Cottonii Extract Complex
FILMEXEL® by SILAB. A complex of tara fruit and cottonii extract that forms a network across the skin surface.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
A reaction product of palmitic acid and pentapeptide-4, joining a fatty acid to a peptide.
sh-Polypeptide-11
A polypeptide synthesised to match a human gene sequence. "sh" marks the production method.
Sodium DNA
The sodium salt of DNA, derived from salmon.
sh-Oligopeptide-1
A protein of 53 amino acids.
Ubiquinone
An electron carrier widely present in living organisms, known in cosmetics as coenzyme Q10.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
An extract from the leaf of aloe vera.
Betaine
An amino acid derivative obtained from sugar beet.
Creatine
An organic acid formed from arginine, glycine and methionine.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
A hyaluronic acid derivative whose hydrophilic groups bind water by hydrogen bonding.
Inositol
A cyclic polyol belonging to the vitamin B group; a six-carbon alcohol carrying hydroxyl groups.
Polyglutamic Acid
A naturally derived material obtained by fermentation, as in cheonggukjang and natto.
Panthenol
An alcohol analogue of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid).
Raffinose
A trisaccharide of D-galactose, D-fructose and D-glucose.
Sodium Hyaluronate
The sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.
Trehalose
A naturally occurring sugar.
Artemisia Annua Extract
An extract from Artemisia annua, a plant of the Asteraceae family.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Obtained by reacting dipeptide-1 with cetyl alcohol and acetic acid.
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
An extract from the rhizome of Anemarrhena asphodeloides, containing saponins.
Asiaticoside
A component derived from Centella asiatica extract.
Centella Asiatica Extract
An extract from Centella asiatica, containing saponins, flavonoids and phenolic acids.
Madecassoside
A naturally occurring compound, one of the components extracted from Centella asiatica.
Asiatic Acid
A naturally occurring compound derived from Centella asiatica extract.
Argan Oil
A natural oil pressed from argan tree kernels, relatively high in vitamin E and carotene.
Hydrogenated Lecithin
A natural emulsifier obtained from soy or egg, high in phospholipids.
Polyglyceryl Emulsifiers
Non-ionic emulsifiers in which glycerin is bound to higher fatty acids; the type varies with the binding site.
Shea Butter
A butter obtained from shea nuts, containing stearic acid, oleic acid and vitamin E.
Squalane
Made by hydrogenating squalene, a plant oil obtained from olives, which makes it less prone to oxidation.
Spirulina
A blue-green alga long used as a food source, containing soluble fibre, carbohydrate, protein and gamma-linolenic acid.
Tocotrienols
One of the vitamin E derivatives; like tocopherols they occur as alpha, beta, gamma and delta forms.
※ The text above describes ingredients, not finished products. The purpose and amount used in any product follow that product’s own ingredient list.
